Guia Cultural da Costa Verde

Mangaratiba • Itacuruçá

BAR DA TIA CONCEIÇÃO

A recipe of genuineness and innovation

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Visitors to Praia do Sul on the island of Jaguanum, district of Itacuruçá, may savor genuine caiçara cooking prepared with the creativity of Tia Conceição, who runs the bar that bears her name.

It all began with a tiny stall where she sold coconut sweets only, while her husband provided cachaça and cigarettes. Visitors to the island began asking for fish, so the couple started to sell fried sardines and beer. As the customers grew in numbers, they expanded the business and built a bar, which continues in its humble origins, created other serving options, maintained their customers and attracted more and more visitors, who had heard of Tia Conceição’s famous fishcakes (made with skate) and baked fish with bananas.

She continues in good health and shape, having been widowed in 2011, relying on the help of God and of her five children who are constantly assisting in managing the business.

During the summer the bar is very busy. During the off season it is best to ring first to order a specific dish, in particular if the order is for fish with bananas or fishcakes. Preparing skate for the fishcakes involves salting and drying, which takes from 25 to 30 days, the texture and flavor are reminiscent of the traditional cod fishcakes, and they go really well with a very cold beer.

Her recipes are always unusual, and even a simple dish with beans will become “Mexican beans”: including minced meat, sausages, bacon and plenty of seasoning. A simple fried fish with pirão (thick fish stock) comes with surprising potato wedges. Tia Conceição also created her very successful fishcakes with bananas. She makes miracles with the little-known breadfruit, which is served in a creamy version or as an ingredient in her shrimp cakes. Besides her fishcakes, skate is served shredded in salads or in pies. Another popular order is banana and potato cakes. With her talented hands in the kitchen, home-made desserts such as star-fruit, hog plum and banana preserves, besides a refreshing star-fruit mousse are sure to please and conclude a meal in a very special manner.

To get to Tia Conceição’s bar and enjoy this genuine and fascinating experience, a boat is the only option and may be easily contracted at the quay in Itacuruçá. But visitors should pay attention to the time and weather conditions during the crossing to the island, which in itself is worth the day’s outing.

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